All of the capacitors and resistors in the unit need replacing. This is the main filter capacitor. As you can see, its insides are attempting to break for freedom. Both of the high voltage electrolytic capacitors were rated at 350V peak, which is concerning because that is very close to what voltage they were operating at. This one is a dual, with 16uF and 32uF sections. I have some modern 32uF 450V axial capacitors I will be using in all places. The difference does not matter. These old capacitors had a tolerance of something like -20%/+100%, so it may well have been operating as 32uF and 64uF.

 To correct all the issues with the mains connection (no fuse, no cable clamp, etc.) I am using a modern IEC connector with integral fuse holder and power switch. They are mounted in a die-cast box attached to the chassis with an aluminium bracket. The bracket is attached to the chassis in the place formerly occupied by the main filter capacitor. Earth wire lugs now have star washers between them and the metal work, giving more reliable connections.

Rewiring has commenced. A tag strip has been added to support the axial electrolytics and the current limiting resistors. The replacement wire is double insulated, salvaged from an old microwave oven. The location formerly occupied by the power switch now has the HT fuse holder.

 Replacement capacitor across the speaker transformer primary.

The wiring underneath is mostly done with solid copper wire run through woven insulation. The insulation appears to have been varnished, but this is breaking down and turning into a sticky mess. All wires run directly between the transformer and the valve/tube sockets. I need the space, so they will be replaced with flex.

The original cathode bias network, and its replacement. Electrolytics have become somewhat smaller in the 60 years since this was made.

Being from U.K., there is a fuse in the mains plug. If this is replaced with an Australian plug, the unit becomes unfused, and that could be a problem because something caused this fuse to blow. That rubber insulation looks pretty sick too. At this point, the unit has not been connected to power. That will come after visual inspection and replacement of all suspect parts in the amplifier and power supply.

The arrowed parts do not appear on the circuit diagram to which I have access. I would be more worried if they weren't here either. The capacitor to the left is part of the self-biasing arrangement for the 6V6 amplifier tube. The schematic has only a 0.05uF capacitor in this position. This unit has that, as well as this 50uF electrolytic. The two resistors and the other electrolytic are the final stage of filtering for the HT line before it goes to the keyboard.

The speaker has been mounted in the box again, with a piece of aluminium mesh to protect the cone. Whatever had been there previously was long gone, exposing the cone to damage.

The chassis is ... interesting. It is certainly lacking in the safety department. It is made of very soft aluminium that can easily be bent with your fingers. There is nothing anchoring either the mains input lead, or the high voltage umbilical to the keyboard in place. There is no grommet where the mains lead passes through the chassis. There is not a single star washer anywhere, meaning all earth connections could become suspect.

And now we flip it over and look at it from top. Note that there is no safety cage around the chassis. It is in easy reach while the unit is in use. There is a fuse in the HT circuit. It's position is the between the "0V" center tap on the high voltage (250V-0V-250V) winding, and the chassis, with serves as 0V and "safety" earth. If this fuse blows, the second end of the fuse, which is above the chassis is now at around 350V DC. Would this kill you? It might not get the chance, because to get to it, you have to reach past the two terminals on the HT filter choke, both of which are also at 350V DC, irrespective of the condition of the fuse. So is at least one of the terminals on the speaker transformer, depending on what else is going on in the amplifier at the time. Of course, if you break a valve/tube, they are also at this lethal voltage.

What does all of this mean? It means no way in hell am I going to do an authentic restoration. I can preserve the functionality/circuit, but mechanically it is getting introduced to the modern age!

It arrived in as good a condition as it was shipped. There is still 50 odd years of wear and tear to deal with. The missing key top (listed as missing in the auction) turned out to be merely misplaced. It was caught behind the amp, which wasn't bolted in.

The tolex and cloth interior were both peeling, so the first thing I did was remove the speaker and amp, give it a good clean, and glue it back into place.

The speaker, which was torn and had several holes was repaired as well as was possible.